All the plants listed below are those which I've succeeded in growing from cuttings by the methods described on the previous page, (i.e. not by using a mister unit). However, the times and strike rates do refer to results from my mister unit as I can't remember the other values. What I can recall suggests that they weren't much different!
CODES
TYPES OF CUTTING
TIMES
Q | Quick | ~ 2/3 weeks |
N | Normal | ~ month |
L | Long | 1 - 2 months |
V | Very long | up to 1-2 years |
SUCCESS RATE
G | Good, | ~100% |
M | Medium, | 50% - 90% |
P | Poor | 10% - 25% |
THE PLANTS
Jump to SHRUBS, CLIMBERS, HERBACEOUS or BULBS
TREES
Abies, koreanna, delavayii, balsamifera prostrata
2, P, V [1]
Acer capillepes
2, L, M
Acer cappadocia
2, N, M Take heeled cuttings from basal growth.
Sycamore, Acer pseudoplatanus
2, N, G or 10, V, M
Cercidifilum japonica
2, N, G Take material from anywhere. Surprisingly easy for a tree.
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, (various cultivars)
2, P, V [1]
Juniperus, (various species)
2, P, V [1]
Olive, Olea europaea
2, N, G
Salix gracilistyla melanostachys
2, L, P or 3, L, P or (best of all) 11, L, G
Sequoiadendron giganteum
2, L, M
Sorbus
2, L,M Take heeled cuttings from basal growth. NB make sure that they're from the tree and not the rootstock in the case of a graft!
Taxus baccata
2, L, G
SHRUBS, etc.
Artemisia abrotanum, (Appleringie, Southernwood, Southern Wormwood, Lads Love, Old Man, Oldman Wormwood, Maidens Ruin, Garde-robe, Boy's Love, Lover's plant, Our Lord's Wood, Garden Sagebrush, European Sage, Sitherwood and Lemon Plant
2, N, G
Artemisia absinthium
2, N, P
Artemisia arborescens x absinthium 'Powis Castle'
1 or 2, Q, G
Buxus varieties
2, V, G Usually 100% rooting but taking 2 years!
Callicarpa bodinieri 'Profusion'
2, N, M
Cornus alba elegantissima
2, N, G
Cornus alba kesselringii
2, N, G
Cornus alba siberica
2, N, G
Cotoneaster congestus nana
2, N, M or, (better) 8, L, G
Cytisus scoparius and præcox varieties
2, L, M
Euonymus europeaus varieties
2, L, M or 3, L, M
Euonymus fortunei kewensis
8, Q, G
Euonymus fortunei 'Silverstone', (the variegated kewensis).
8, Q, G
Other species of Euonymus are far more difficult and I've never succeeded.
Hebe
2, N, M to 2, V, P depending on the species
Hydrangea paniculata
2, N, M
Lonicera fragrantissima, chaetocarpa, involucrata
2, L, P
Lonicera nitida, pileata
2, N, G
Mahonia japonica
2, L, M
Philadelphus ?
2, N, M
Rhododendron or Azalea[2]
2, V, P
Roses
2, N, G or 3, L, G to P
Older roses, e.g. Ispahan, are difficult, newer introductions are easier.
N.B. a Rose on its own roots is liable to have a different habit to the original grafted plant.
Salix (most species)
2, N, G
Salix fargesii
2, L, P or 3, L, P
Sambuccus nigra and racemosa varieties
1, Q, G or 2, Q, G
Spirea japonica and arguta
2, L, M
Viburnum bodnantense 'Dawn'
2, L, M or 3, L, M
Viburnum x burkwoodii
3, L, P
Viburnum sargentiana
2, L, M or 3, L, M or 8, M, G
Viburnum trilobum
2, L, P
CLIMBERS
Clematis species and cultivars
2, N, G, (9 should also work but I've never tried it.)
It's usually suggested that Clematis are propagated from inter-nodal cuttings. I've never got this to work.
What I use are bi-nodal cuttings. The leaves are removed from the lower node which is buried and from which the roots grow.
I've had good results with this method for a variety of species and cultivars.
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
2, N, G
Jasminum officinale
9, N, G
Lonicera japonica haliana and aureoreticulata
2, N, M
Lonicera periclymenum cultivars
2, N, M
Parthenocisus quinquefolia
2, N, M
Vitis vinifera, decorative and fruit species
1 or 2, N, M
HERBACEOUS
Most herbaceous plants are better propagated by division but cuttings are useful for those which are slow to bulk up.
Artemesia vulgaris 'Oriental Limelight'[3]
1, N, G
Dianthus
1, L, G
Lamium
1, N, G
Nepeta
1, N, M
Papaver orientale
4, L, P
Verbascum
4, L, P
Viola
1, N, G
BULBS
Cardiocrinum cordatum
6, V, P
Lilium, (species & cultivars)
6, V, G
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As a footnote, the only cuttings which have definitely required the mister are,