CUTTINGS, Plant information  Feed back button

All the plants listed below are those which I've succeeded in growing from cuttings by the methods described on the previous page, (i.e. not by using a mister unit). However, the times and strike rates do refer to results from my mister unit as I can't remember the other values. What I can recall suggests that they weren't much different!



  1. Softwood
  2. Semi-ripe
  3. Hardwood
  4. Root cuttings
  5. Chitting
  6. Scales/Flakes
  7. Leaf cuttings
  8. Simple layering
  9. Sinusoidal layering
  10. Air layering
  11. Water layering


Q Quick ~ 2/3 weeks
N Normal ~ month
L Long 1 - 2 months
V Very long up to 1-2 years


G Good, ~100%
M Medium, 50% - 90%
P Poor 10% - 25%




Abies, koreanna, delavayii, balsamifera prostrata
2, P, V [1]

Acer capillepes
2, L, M

Acer cappadocia
2, N, M Take heeled cuttings from basal growth.

Sycamore, Acer pseudoplatanus
2, N, G or 10, V, M

Cercidifilum japonica
2, N, G Take material from anywhere. Surprisingly easy for a tree.

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, (various cultivars)
2, P, V [1]

Juniperus, (various species)
2, P, V [1]

Olive, Olea europaea
2, N, G

Salix gracilistyla melanostachys
2, L, P or 3, L, P or (best of all) 11, L, G

Sequoiadendron giganteum
2, L, M

2, L,M Take heeled cuttings from basal growth.

Taxus baccata
2, L, G

 SHRUBS, etc. 

Artemisia abrotanum, (Appleringy, Southernwood, Lads Love, Old Man, Maidens Ruin, Garde-robe
2, N, G

Artemisia absinthium
2, N, P

Artemisia arborescens x absinthium 'Powis Castle'
1 or 2, Q, G

Buxus varieties
2, V, G Usually 100% rooting but taking 2 years!

Callicarpa bodinieri 'Profusion'
2, N, M

Cornus alba elegantissima
2, N, G

Cornus alba kesselringii
2, N, G

Cornus alba siberica
2, N, G

Cotoneaster congestus nana
2, N, M or, (better) 8, L, G

Cytisus scoparius and præcox varieties
2, L, M

Euonymus europeaus varieties
2, L, M or 3, L, M

Euonymus fortunei kewensis
8, Q, G

Euonymus fortunei 'Silverstone', (the variegated kewensis).
8, Q, G

Other species of Euonymus are far more difficult and I've never succeeded.

2, N, M to 2, V, P depending on the species

Hydrangea paniculata
2, N, M

Lonicera fragrantissima, chaetocarpa, involucrata
2, L, P

Lonicera nitida, pileata
2, N, G

Mahonia japonica
2, L, M

Philadelphus ?
2, N, M

Rhododendron or Azalea[2]
2, V, P

2, N, G or 3, L, G to P

Older roses, e.g. Ispahan, are difficult, newer introductions are easier.
N.B. a Rose on its own roots is liable to have a different habit to the original grafted plant.

Salix (most species)
2, N, G

Salix fargesii
2, L, P or 3, L, P

Sambuccus nigra and racemosa varieties
1, Q, G or 2, Q, G

Spirea japonica and arguta
2, L, M

Viburnum bodnantense 'Dawn'
2, L, M or 3, L, M

Viburnum x burkwoodii
3, L, P

Viburnum sargentiana
2, L, M or 3, L, M or 8, M, G

Viburnum trilobum
2, L, P


Clematis species and cultivars
2, N, G, (9 should also work but I've never tried it.)

It's usually suggested that Clematis are propagated from inter-nodal cuttings. I've never got this to work.
What I use are bi-nodal cuttings. The leaves are removed from the lower node which is buried and from which the roots grow.
I've had good results with this method for a variety of species and cultivars.

Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
2, N, G

Jasminum officinale
9, N, G

Lonicera japonica haliana and aureoreticulata
2, N, M

Lonicera periclymenum cultivars
2, N, M

Parthenocisus quinquefolia
2, N, M

Vitis vinifera, decorative and fruit species
1 or 2, N, M


Most herbaceous plants are better propagated by division but cuttings are useful for those which are slow to bulk up.

Artemesia vulgaris 'Oriental Limelight'[3]
1, N, G

1, L, G

1, N, G

1, N, M

Papaver orientale
4, L, P

4, L, P

1, N, G


Cardiocrinum cordatum
6, V, P

Lilium, (species & cultivars)
6, V, G

Click here to download these notes as an RTF document, (79K), or a Word document, (54K).
N.B. Some RTF readers won't display the footnotes shown below.

As a footnote, the only cuttings which have definitely required the mister are,

[1] I've found these plants root best in sharp sand rather than compost.
[2] I've read that Rhododendron cuttings need to be taken during a few weeks in Spring and certainly all those I've succeeded in rooting came from that time. You also need an acid compost but ericaceous compost is liable to retain too much moisture. I use my normal compost with the addition of Sulphur pellets.
[3] Whilst this roots easily, it needs to develop a tuberous root to over-winter so should be propagated early in the year.